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Wednesday, September 10, 2008

THE RUSSIANS ARE COMING, THE RUSSIANS ARE COMING


HIGH PROFILE Aliona Doletskaya at Diane Von Furstenberg’s show and at the Hotel Gansevoort.


Do you think that Anna Wintour's feelings (she has them, right?) are hurt by the media's insistence on paying attention to other countries' Vogue editors, and even speculating that they might replace her? 

The other day this adoring profile of Paris Vogue's Carine Roitfeld (Julia's mom) called the rumors that she might replace Anna "delicious," and today the Times introduces us to Carine's friend Aliona Doletskaya. 

The "focused and formidably confident" editor of Russian Vogue, who has, of course, a "lithe physique, foxlike features and predilection for curve-skimming dresses," is also rumored to a contender for the US job.


While Doletskaya dismisses this as "fantasy," it could kick off a fun trend to replace the craze for British magazine editors: Instead of Joannas, Tinas, and Glendas, we could have Svetlanas, Olgas, and Natassias! 

Let's face it, it's going to happen anyway by around 2011, when the Russians will own everything in New York and the rest of the planet.

[city file]


Here's the NYT profile of Aliona:


Why the Editor of Russian Vogue Is Getting So Much Attention

By RUTH LA FERLA
Fishing in her outsize tote, Aliona Doletskaya pulled out her iPhone. “Yes darling, fine darling, everything will go as planned,” she told her caller with the steely authority of a woman long accustomed to having her edicts followed.

In that instant she seemed a creature straight out of central casting, the lanky Slavic counterpart to Miranda Priestly of “The Devil Wears Prada.”

She is that — to a point, Ms. Doletskaya allowed. This is, after all, her 10th year as the editor of Russian Vogue, an experience, she added in a sexy whiskey tenor, that has not done much to soften her. “Fashion is a world in which everything is gorgeous, stunning, caramel on top of caramel, and cream on top of that,” she said. “But in reality you have to fire people, to say things that are not particularly nice. There is a contrast between what you do socially and what happens behind closed doors.”

Focused and formidably confident, Ms. Doletskaya, who has flitted in and out of the tents during Fashion Week, has been compared to her editorial counterparts at Vogue in Paris and New York. And her somewhat austere presence has fueled blog twittering that she is on a short list of likely successors to American Vogue editor Anna Wintour, should Ms. Wintour one day shrug off the mantle.

Lately those comparisons have placed Ms. Doletskaya under unaccustomed scrutiny. They arise in part from her impressive track record. Russian Vogue, introduced 10 years ago in a time of economic turmoil, now has a circulation estimated at 200,000. Its September issue carried some 340 pages of advertising.

Then there is her image. With her lithe physique, foxlike features and predilection for curve-skimming dresses, she appears to be cut from much the same cloth as Carine Roitfeld, the editor of Paris Vogue, whom she counts as a friend.

Seated front row center at the Diane Von Furstenberg show on Sunday, she studied the collection with an analytic eye, confiding in a whisper: “I love all the safari variations and the big tank tops. They are quite cool.” Ignoring several heads that turned in her direction, she went on blithely, “On the whole, the collection made me feel I was on holiday.”

Earlier that weekend, kicking off her Narciso platforms and resting her feet on a table at the Hotel Gansevoort, Ms. Doletskaya seemed to take the unaccustomed attention in stride. The rumors that she would one day replace Ms. Wintour are “pure fantasy, just that — someone else’s romantic notion.” And yet, in her own assessment, she is infinitely “adaptable,” so much so that one could imagine her stepping into Ms. Wintour’s towering boots.

As an editor, Ms. Doletskaya treads a fine line, hewing to the commercial demands of what is arguably the world’s most influential fashion franchise and, at the same time, catering to the tastes of her Russian readership.

An unlikely style maven, she holds a Ph.D. in comparative linguistics. And she strives to edit a magazine that reflects all that has historically defined the Russian style. The fashion pages in her September issue open with a portrait of Anna Selezneva, one of Russia’s most-sought-after models, photographed to resemble an icon — the religious kind.

That image is meant to reflect “the Byzantine past of the country,” Ms. Doletskaya said, “which, with its love of gilding, is really over he top.”

Yet in Moscow, where Vogue has its offices, tastes are shifting, as reflected by the stepped-up presence of American designers in her magazine. “The full-on extravagance, the red lipstick, the diamonds, the furs, all that is passé,” she said firmly. “The Russians are getting far more sophisticated.”

Ms. Doletskaya herself is intent on fostering those newly cosmopolitan tendencies. “What I want to say now to my readers is that we are part of the world,” she said, “no longer wild unfriendly creatures sitting behind a wall.”

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WATER WORKS


Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez had a lot to celebrate last night at the Beatrice Inn, where they hosted their own official after-party (Kirsten Dunst and Kelly Klein were among their well-wishers).

Not only did they just put on another much talked-about collection, but as Hernandez revealed, they were also congratulating themselves on surviving their own Chinatown flood just days before. 

The Proenza Schouler studio occupies the entire sixth floor of an old building on Walker Street. 

The seventh is the top floor and gets lots of natural light, so when the occupants moved out, the duo decided to move up there to work on the Spring collection. 

“While we were fitting Natasha Poly two days ago, I felt a little drop of something wet hit my face,” Hernandez remembers. “And then, Wham! Just like that, the skylight fell in with 1,000 gallons of water or something.” 

The building’s floors are warped, so the water pooled in a corner, and since nearly everything was on racks at the time, it wasn’t like the entire collection was severely damaged. 

But the designers had to reschedule the rest of the day’s fittings to the day before the show, move everything, sedate themselves, and devise a new alterations system. 

“I knew we wouldn’t be sleeping in for weeks,” McCollough said. “But that whole water tower thing didn’t help.”


[style]

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NY FASHION WEEK


At Betsey Johnson, the front row— Perry Farrell, Miss J Alexander, Bow Wow, Ugly Betty's Mark Indelicato, Jason Lewis, Mickey Boardman, Lynn Yaeger, and Patrick McMullan—sat at little tables festooned with frosted cupcakes and lollipops for a Peter Pan-themed show in which Liam McMullan played a pirate "throwing gold coins at the audience and pinching the models' exposed bottoms as they walked by." Betsey did her customary finale cartwheel, showed off her granddaughter (left), and went off on vacation with her boyfriend (an Italian decades her junior, of course). [NYO, The Cut, Fashion Wire Daily]

Everyone's favorite Fashion Week mishap, the runway tumble, happened at Rodarte: Abby Lee fell off her extremely high heels, although a tired-looking Agyness managed to stay upright. Not that the show, which unveiled clothes even more unique and directional than we've come to expect from the Mulleavy sisters, needed the extra publicity: The presence of Anna Wintour, Bee Shaffer, André Leon Tally, Diane von Furstenberg, Michael Roberts, Simon Doonan, Natalie Portman, Tobey Maguire, Kim Gordon, and Miranda July sealed the label's white-hot reputation. [style file, Reuters, Wireimage]

Derek Lam pushed the envelope with genie pants and jumped on the jumpsuit bandwagon for an audience including Anna Wintour, André Leon Talley, Lauren Santo Domingo, Natalie Portman, and Fabiola Beracasa—who had her reporter hat on and interviewed Lam backstage. [NYM, Style.com]

Benjamin Cho got a black mark for starting an entire hour late, but unsurprisingly the hipster favorite's show had a "party atmosphere" and a guest list like one: Chloë Sevigny, Natasha Lyonne, Mary Kate Olsen and Nate Lowman, Ryan McGinley, Cory Kennedy, Arden Wohl, Leigh Lezark and Max Minghella, Waris Ahluwalia, Bow Wow and Reverend Run's daughter Angela Simmons, and Leo Fitzpatrick took in a show that was "classic Cho"—which means keys hanging off sleeves, raw edges, and completely sheer dresses and jumpsuits. [Wireimage, Style.com]



[city file]


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Monday, September 8, 2008

KERRY DEGMAN: L'OFFICIEL HOMMES #13

In less than a week....

Fresh off his shoot for Pop magazine.....

One of our favorite model loves, Kerry, was clicked by Milan Vukmirovic
























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D-K-N-Y D-R-A-M-A




Drama abounded at DKNY's show yesterday: PETA protestors burst onto the runway, shouting and brandishing placards—to the apparent amusement of André Leon Talley—while Petra Nemcova's new bangs rendered her unrecognizable and therefore unmolested by the media. Meanwhile the rather random celebrity trio of Winona Ryder, Christina Ricci, and Nicole Richie were regaled with "combinations of electric blue and black, neon pink and yellow anorak dresses, parachute pants and color-blocked knits" and a finale led by Donna Karan's five-year-old granddaughter Stefania. [The Cut, Fashionologie, NYDN, Telegraph]

[city file]



From The Telegraph, UK:

Donna Karan celebrated the 20th anniversary of her DKNY label with a collection as fresh and streetwise as the name suggests – Donna Karan New York.



Casual but sexy: DKNY's spring/summer 2009 collection
The collection was paraded on a runway the colour of a New York taxi, against a montage of street scenes in the Big Apple, with the girls in a mix of the casual, but sexy pieces the brand has come to represent over the last two decades.

Low-slung baggy jeans were paired with printed bustier tops, slashed at the waist with a giant bow; strapless mini-dresses, in a navy and neon yellow print, were worn with matching cardigans or easy, bomber-style jackets, elasticized at hem and wrists; romper-shorts came with funky, broken-stripe T-shirts; and curvy T-dresses with anorak and cagoule-inspired jackets, bristling with utility details.

When the dresses were ‘dressy’, they were still as short as belts, but came in ‘Smoothie’ colours, lime stretch or tri-colour mixes of peach, black and cobalt. Key accessories were multi-coloured, stack-heeled trainers and fringed scarves.

The show’s finale featured a ‘crocodile’ of little ones, led by Karan’s five-year-old grand-daughter, Stefania, and a bevy of young models in vintage pieces from past DKNY collections.




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T MAGAZINE VS. WSJ MAGAZINE






This weekend marks the much-anticipated premiere of WSJ., the new luxury-advertiser acquisition vehicle—ahem!—style supplement from the Wall Street Journal, as well as the latest men's issue of T. Here's how they measure up.




CLICK ON ABOVE IMAGE TO READ!!!











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Sunday, September 7, 2008

SHIPLEY AND HALMOS

THE OTHER HALF OF FOUNDING FATHERS OF TROVATA

JEFF HALMOS (L), SAM SHIPLEY--ONE OF OUR MANY LOVES (R)



AS YOU KNOW, LA*SURFPUNK HAS ALREADY PROFESSED HIS LOVE FOR SHIPLEY!!!




Somewhere between the Rag & Bone show, the Rag & Bone after-party, and a much-needed turkey sandwich to keep me going through it all, I squeezed in a minute with Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos.

The boys, an original half of California-cool Trovata, were miraculously calm just minutes before showing their second collection under their label Shipley and Halmos.

"Everything's bagged, steamed and ready to go," Jeff told me.

While they waited for their models to get the finishing touches, (which included pink lip gloss on their eyelids!), they said they were excited for their Spring 2009 collection. "It's a great collection, which should make for a great show! We loved working with Loeffler Randall on the shoes and Phililp Crangi on the jewelry. It's fun when everyone gets creative together."

I loved the jewelry, but it's the Loeffler Randall shoes I see making the pages of Teen Vogue next spring. The CFDA winning, Brooklyn based label really polished off the boys' sophisticated collection with their colorful, chunky heels.

If you do get your lucky hands on pair, take a few practice turns around your room before wearing them out - the first model on the runway took a not so little stumble!










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[teen vogue]


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Friday, September 5, 2008

GEARING UP FOR FASHION WEEK IN NY AND ALL THE HOT MEN

BACKSTAGE AT TROVATA




















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Wednesday, September 3, 2008

FOREIGN MAGS ARE SO MUCH BETTER THAN AMERICAN MAGS







We love foreign mags so much better than their American counterparts--our magazines are SO boring and conservative.

We love British GQ--it's so way better, L'UOMO VOGUE and Tetu and......

NOW--

MOXOW magazine is making a French debut!!!

Levi Poulter dons the cover!!!

How merveilleux!!!














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MODEL MEET: RANDY NASH












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BRUCE WEBER CLICKS ZAC EFRON FOR TEEN VOGUE






When asked about the shoot with the famed photographer, Zac had this to say: "Today's shoot was very natural. We're not in a studio, we're outside. I'm very lucky to work with Bruce. He's such an icon in the world of photography."





We'll take at least 5 issues PLEASE!!!!





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Tuesday, September 2, 2008

OPEN CIRCUIT

The ever handsome EIC MENS VOGUE, Jay Fielden
with tennis player, James Blake





With so many of us gearing up for fashion week in early September, it’s easy to forget that New York is host to another megawatt event: The U.S. Open. On Thursday night Men’s Vogue’s Jay Fielden and Marc Berger reminded their besuited buddies of the incoming tennis troops with a party in honor of ninth-seeded righthander James Blake. Nursing one of many glasses of water, the pro admitted that he’s no longer nervous approaching matches, but fashion parties still give him the jitters. “Walking into a match is second nature now, but these types of parties aren’t. Not yet, anyway,” he said, adding, as he tugged on the lapel of his Hugo Boss suit, “but if I think I look nice they’re not too bad.” Childhood pal John Mayer (who knew?) helped Berger navigate the crowd, but confused the photographers when he tried to play both sides of the paparazzi court. (”Enough!” he screamed at one point, then whined, “I don’t want to be mean.”) Fielden, on the other hand, remained a gentleman—that is, until the subject of seats came up. “The deal is very clear: We hosted this party in hopes he’ll give us better ones next week.”






[style]

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COLLABORATIONS: DIANE VON FURSTENBERG WITH THE ANDY WARHOL FOUNDATION


DVF adds her signature blooms with a Warholian pop of color.  

Never too late to plan for resort.

$120 at DVF stores in October, (646)486-4800 or dvf.com





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TAKING GHETTO TO A NEW LEVEL



Bijules is as described by designer Jules Kim as both defiant and identifying, but we’ll throw in clever and fun, too. Take these gold nail rings. Part of Kim’s Serpensive collection, the snake-shaped accessories are fully customizable (you pick the color of your gold and the pavé setting stones). Then feel free to call attention to your new baubles. We suggest squinting your eyes, adopting a pensive look, and bringing your hand up to your chin—all the better to bling you with. For more information, see www.bijulesnyc.com.






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